France, Italy & Sicily September thru November 2010

The Italian Experience Part one -17th October, 2010

First time we’ve found Wifi for a long time so here’s an update!

Beau Village Perouges

Seems a long time since we were sitting relaxing in the sun in Provence,  We are now WELL on our way down the leg of Italy and 300 miles from our final destination of Sicily.  A pretty uneventful trip so far, except for...... the white knuckle rides, which bring on seriously bad bouts of tourettes, that seem to have become a daily way of life. Not just because of the pot-holes that sneak up on you or the terrible state that some of the Italian roads are in, but mostly down to the kamakazi Italian drivers who, drive three a breast, appear from nowhere, overtake, undertake and would fly over the top of you if they could because it seems, THEY have the right of way, regardless.  Even kids on scooters expect us to give way and it’s a good job we do otherwise we would have a great number of them etched into the windscreen by now.  We’ve lost count of the number of near misses (probably because I’ve got my eyes shut most of the time, gripping the arm of my seat) and if you think you are any safer as a pedestrian, forget it, you don’t have priority there either,  Brian has nearly been run over several times just trying to get across the road. I don’t know why we are amazed at any of this, after-all this is the 3^rd trip through this country. I guess driving in Italy is like child birth, eventually you forget the pain, and go and do it all over again. If we have learned one rule to driving in Italy it is that 'there are no rules'  If you see an opening, go for it, do not hesitate, HE WHO DARES WINS. (Nervous tic starting again so let’s go back to sitting in the sun relaxing in Provence.) 

Beau Village La Poet Laval

And breathe……….

Fontaine de la Vaucluse

Route so far: Sticking to the National roads through France with overnights at Roanne, Crest and Nyons the weather was excellent and it was shorts and t-shirts all the way. 

Mont Ventoux

We stayed at Malaucene for the night in preparation for our trip up Mont Ventoux, where it is said that the wind blows at 56 m/hr 240 days a year. Oh yes! Warm jackets and long trousers are definitely a plus.  Unfortunately not as great a day as the day before for views, but at least it wasn’t raining.  A couple of nights at Fontaine de la Vaucluse saw the sun shine again.

St Michel l'observatoire

A few more ‘Beau Villages’  later we found a nice little spot in Haute Provence where we put our feet up for 3 nights and enjoyed the peace and quiet of a small hill top village with magnificent views of the Sud Alpes.Gathering Almonds was about as strenuous as it got (that’s another one to add to the foraging list which now includes Walnuts, Hazel nuts, Apples, Blackberries, Pomegranite and heavanly Figs mmmmm.). From here, reluctantly, we decided we would gradually make our way into Italy via the Col Larche. An absolutely beautiful run at this time of year with the Autumn colours really at their best.

Jausiers

With just a couple more stops overnight one at Selonnet, sleeping with the sound of cow bells,  the second at Jausiers,   the nights were getting colder the higher we got (dropping to 1 degree overnight at Jausiers and ice on the thermal screen cover the next morning). We finally crossed into Italy 19 nights into the holiday and our first sighting of snow.  Nothing to worry about, it quickly disappeared as we made our descent.

Col Larche

Roasting Chestnuts, Cuneo

Heading towards the Italian Riviera via Cuneo we stopped off to wander around the annual 'Fete' and sample some warming hot chestnuts. Eager to be on our way and it being a Sunday we headed for Savona, our thoughts being that it would be the quietest day to travel, we could avoid the motorway tolls and just tootal along the coast.  WRONG.  Every man, his wife and his little Italian pooch were doing the same thing.  We then made the same mistake of thinking we could do the same with Genoa.  WRONG, every man, his wife, his little Italian pooch and his Mamma were doing the same thing. (I think this is the point where the nervous tic started).   After a knuckle clenching, teeth grinding journey, most of it a blur by now, on very twisty coastal roads it was very, very late when we finally pulled off and found a campsite for the night in Sestri Levante. Next morning, we took the motorway, oh yes, enough of the meandering.  We had arranged to meet up with friends, Judy and Dave who were on their way back from Greece and that is just what we did and a good night was had by all.  


A couple more overnights later, an exhausting, hot day walking around the amazing city of Pompei, saw us finally relaxing on a Campsite somewhere between Naples and Sorrento. 

Pompei

Now, I have deliberately left out the bit about driving through Naples because I fear for my mental health. All I will say is that fortunately, at this moment in time, we are both in a comatosed state of  shock…. and it really helps. 

So the plan is, tomorrow, see the Amalfi coast and then continue South.  Watch this space.  Tic Tic.

The Italian Experience Part Two - 23rd October 2010

Mamma Mia, enough already, the Amalfi Coast is history as we were recommended NOT to take the Motorhome that way. After slowly creeping along part of it to a Campsite that Dave recommended we listened to the good advice for a change and headed out of the area and took the coast road all the way down to Villa San Giovanni and the ferry crossing to Sicily. But not before 'Wanda' had her evil way with us again and took us through a series of hair pin bends up to a tiny hilltop village with narrow streets and a set of traffic lights with a warning sign that said ‘max width 2.50m’.  Oh dear, or words similar to that.  We are 2.40m.   It looked a no go and with no option of reversing because traffic was backing up behind us. As is now becoming the norm, I got out to walk the distance to make sure we could get through and that some nice little Italian man had not left his car parked in our path.  Luckily, for once, there was no-one trebled parked, chatting to neighbours or had just merely abandoned their car.  Talk about cat’s whiskers, I still don’t know how Brian managed to squeeze the van through the twisty street  but no sigh of relief yet, we ran straight into what looked like the whole village’s male population coming out of Church into the tiny square we now found ourselves in.  To cheers of ‘Hey Anglaise’, ‘Buongiorno’, clapping and hooting Brian manoeuvred his way through the crowd who HAD trebled parked, stopped to speak to their neighbours and/or just abandoned their cars.  Thank you Wanda, you really kept that one up your sleeve.

Terracina

Marina di Camerota

We had a couple of nice harbour stop-overs at Terracina and Marina di Camerota before turning up at a Sosta* near Amantea, which was actually closed for the season, but the owner let us in for 10 euros and happily showed us how to raise the barrier when we wanted to leave in the morning.  (*Sosta Italian name for Stopping Place, like a campsite with hook up, showers etc but without recreational stuff and for Motorhomes only)  Torrential rain all night,  at 2 a.m. Brian decided to move the van onto a harder surface just in case we got stuck in the mud, Oh yes we are learning from our past experiences.   Next morning, still raining hard, but only an hour to go we drove the last leg to the port, bought our return ticket and boarded a ferry for the short crossing to Messina. 

Welcome to Sicily and sunshine.

Parking Lagani

As it was late in the afternoon we decided it made more sense to hop on the Motorway to our first stopover.  Another Sosta at Giardini-Naxos (this time recommended by a nice Swedish bloke we met on the mainland).  Very well organised, marked out hard-standing pitches with own electric, washing up facilities, outdoor shower and table and chairs with a glorious view of the snow-capped Mount Etna and only a few minutes walk into the harbour with shops, bars, restaurants etc.  Owned by a lovely Sicilian man and his family who couldn’t have been more helpful even down to giving us a better rate for the night (10 euros) than his son-in-law had originally offered us. Ooops.

Camping Jonio, Catania

Day two on Sicily brought on the tourettes again as we tried the coast road clockwise round the island.  The usually pandemonium in the narrow streets, traffic jams with only inches to spare between us and their battered cars (can’t imagine why they all seem to have a bump or scrape somewhere!).  We travelled 23 miles and it took us 1.5 hours, felt like 5.  Picked out a campsite for the night near Catania where we’re now parked on a headland overlooking the Ionian Sea with waves crashing on the rocks below us. It’s a very pleasant 24 degrees for lapping up the sun and mentally recharging.  Met up with two other British Vans who are both on their way back home, one couple sailing from Palermo to Genoa because they can’t face the drive back, sounds good to me too. We are now having a two day rest before braving the rest of the island. 

The Italian experience Part Three - 22nd November 2010

Greek ruins, Segesta

We are now, after 4 weeks on this island…gradually falling in love with Sicily.  Despite the nervous breakdowns suffered driving here it has all been well worth it.  It is steeped in history, if that is your thing, and we are all Greek Temple-d and Roman Villa-d out,  many of the archaeological sites date back to 628 BC  (I know, I was impressed that I remembered that far back too Ha Ha). 

Castaluzzo/Macari

San Vito lo Capo

The countryside is just beautiful dotted with olive groves, orange plantations and vineyards. There are wide sandy beaches in the South, wild rugged mountains and coves in the North and a very green stunning hilly bit in the middle.

Ortygia, Syracuse

Trapani

From the beautiful Baroque buildings of Trapani to the streets of Ortygia, Siracusa where every balcony has a line of washing hanging from it and where you can stand in the middle of the tiny streets and touch the buildings on both sides.  

Ortygia, Syracuse

Ragusa Ibla

There are masses of picturesque hill top villages, Erice near Trapani, is one not to be missed, villages devastated by earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, and towns that are so crammed full of people they look like something out of the 3^rd world.  Top it all off with excellent seafood, pasta dishes, ice cream and my favourite ….a scrumptious little almond cakey-thingy……. Sicily has by far exceeded our expectations.

Salt Flats, Trapani

We have been really impressed at the friendliness of the Sicilians who will go out of their way to help the confused Inglaise, e.g. Scene one, take one, cue embarrassing moment in LIDL.  Trolley full of shopping, not enough cash, Lidl do not take any of our cards.  I wait by the checkout with full trolley while Brian rushes out trying to find a Bankomat.  After walking 2 miles in one direction he finally finds an ATM outside a Bank of Sicilia.  Unfortunately, ATM does not like any of Brian’s cards.  Enter nice Sicilian businessman, who seeing B’s problem drives B 2 miles in opposite direction to another ATM which still won’t accept his CC’s.  Brian has now endured intensive course of being a passenger of crazy suicidal Italian driver. After a lot of shoulder shrugging, hands and arm waving, (nice man does not speaka di inglish apart from two words Wayne Rooney!!??  Which is actually one more than Brians.…‘spaghetti’).  Nice man gives B his business card and telephone number in case he has more problems 

Gulf di Bonagia

(not sure what the point of that was as neither of them could understand each other, but it was a nice gesture) before dropping him back at LIDL an hour and a half later still without any money.  OK, now we unload trolley throwing out Beer and Wine amidst tears and sobbing from Brian, until we could pay for remaining items. Pay for said items, drive around corner and low and behold, find an ATM that will give us money only a 5 mins walk from LIDL.  Note to self, send Brian for Italian and orienteering lessons when we get back home.

Scene two, take 1.  My visit to Hospital looking for nurse to administer a B12 jab (which I had brought with me from home).  Staying at a local campsite near Avola and turning down the offer of a very old rusty bicycle from Gurt! We walked the 1.3 miles down a very busy main road with no pavement, a feat in itself, to the nearest Hospital.  Walked into reception, asked a couple of ‘suits’ if they spoke English, No. OK have no option but to ask very tall man wearing lumberjack shirt and tracky bottoms who is jabbering away on the telephone as he is the only one left. Introducing Vincenzo, an off duty ambulance driver.  1^st problemo, Vincenzo no speaka di inglish, but he did speak French. Magnific, with a bit of franglais and the usual hand and arm gesturing I am now becoming an expert at, I explained I needed to find a nurse etc. etc.  2^nd problemo, it was lunch time and everyone had gone on their normal 2 hour break.  Making my problem his own, Vincenzo walked us through A & E, the Pharmacy,  miles of corridors, up and down in lifts looking for someone to help. Eventually we tramped back to reception where, before we had accosted him, he had been waiting to had over a large jar of honey to an ENT consultant!  To cut a long story short, during our marathon hospital walkabout, we learned, not to judge a person by his clothes, we learned the advantage knowing a second language, we learned Vincenzo’s life story, we learned how to count up to 10 in Italian,…don’t ask........we learned you don’t need to wait in queues at the ‘take a ticket’ booth and we learned there is no such thing as ‘bureaucracy’ as long as you find a nice helpful bloke. Finally after a long telephone call punctuated with lots of ‘beunos’, which we took to be a good sign, we were back in the lift again to a room somewhere on some floor we had not yet been, to find a nurse who was willing to help. Job done, happy campers walked the 1.3 miles back down nightmare road to campsite. Grazie Mille, Merci Beaucoup, Vincenzo.

Ohhh Ahhhh Road from Gibellina

On the down side, the roads are still awful, sometimes catching you unawares with great big pot holes or simply just dropping away. (Scary moment in the hills near Gibellina, road surface falling away from hillside with just a couple of traffic cones as a warning). We still can’t drive through their towns without an attack of Tourettes and there is sometimes  some sort of ‘nuisance’ which stops you getting a good night’s sleep i.e. train track too close, dogs barking, idiots on Vespa’s doing wheelies at 11pm (over-nighting on the harbour at Cefalu).............

Marzamimi

Harbour, Cefalu

..........or a 10pm – 3am Saturday night ‘Rave’ going on next to the most idyllic harbour stopover we had found at Marzamimi.  Absolutely tortuous! Ears stuffed with cotton wool, head under pillow and duvet still didn’t cut out dreadful noise.  (showing my age now.....)

Snorkelling for Octopus

Having said that, we have found some great places to ‘Wild’ camp, mostly close to the sea, on a beach or harbour.  Sometimes on our own, but mainly with fellow campers.  We spent 5 nights ‘wilding’ on a beach nr Marina di Modica with some Dutch, German and Kiwi’s idling the days away watching the locals snorkelling for Octopus.  One guy caught 7, which he proudly showed us, YUK! 

Twister

The weather has been brilliant, sunny and warm, mid 20’s, with only a couple of rainy spells which seem to clear up immediately and during one such downpour we saw a Twister.  It was sucking up water from the sea!  Amazing sight. 

Overnight stop at Scopello

We have left a couple of ‘sights’ to see, although we do not need an excuse to return to this beautiful island. 1) The town Corleone, famous for it’s Mafia connection and massacres etc.(strange how you just can’t get the theme to the Godfather out of your head especially when you hear the local guys humming it, just for our entertainment I’m sure)  and 2) Mount Etna, which we had intended to do at the very end of the holiday only to find that the cable car station where you make your ascent from has now closed for the winter. As we didn’t fancy a 5 hour walk in freezing temperatures we thought ‘maybe next time’.  

Giardini Naxos

Camping Eden 6€/night inc EHU

So after 28 nights and 1,200 miles,  just on Sicily alone, here we are back in Giardini Naxos for a couple of nights before attempting the long journey home. (funnily enough not the beautiful coastal route but mostly on the motorways).  We hope to be back in the UK 1^st week of December and are really looking forward to the cold miserable weather that our friends keep updating us on…..not, and are VERY sorry to be leaving this beautiful island and the Sicilian Sunshine.

ARRIVEDERCI